In-Depth Review and Tips: kLite Gravel ULTRA V2 Dynamo Light + Charging System

Night riding: love it or hate it? For many of us it’s a mixed bag. Pedaling through wild places in darkness can feel meditative, introspective, and primal. Yet the urge to find a cozy spot and hunker down for the night, at least for me, can feel overwhelming.

Through years of bikepacking, racing, and touring I have found that nothing makes a bigger difference in my mental state as the sun goes down than a super bright, super reliable light.

The kLite dynamo-powered system is the latest and greatest in my journey toward better lighting for my bikepacking adventures. I’ve come a long way since riding my first bikepacking race with a dinky commuter handlebar light (not recommended!). A helmet mount and a big stack of power banks got me pretty far, but nothing compares to the magic of a dynamo hub and a thoughtfully designed, well-executed bikepacking dynamo light.

My kLite system came along with a massive overall upgrade to my gear and riding experience: my new Stella Ti mountain bike with a SON 28 dynamo hub. I’ve been happily putting this system through its paces over the last few months, including a thousand miles of bikepack races and events (Tour de los Padres, Pinyons and Pines, and Bones to Blue).

These rides include every surface imaginable from pavement to gravel to singletrack, with a focus on dirt and gravel of varying quality. At my slow-and-steady pace they add up to about 11.5 days and partial nights of riding. During events I usually ride a few hours after sunset and an hour or two before sunrise (if I can drag myself out of my bivy in time), so I estimate 30 – 35 hours of night riding with the kLite so far.

Australia-based kLite, essentially a one man show run by Kerry Staite, is well known in the endurance racing and bikepacking scene for its super-bright lights, innovative tech, and rugged design. This system ain’t cheap, and I had lofty expectations for this premium piece of gear.

So how has it performed? In this in-depth review I’ll explain the kLite ULTRA products and how they work, how I installed mine, and what I think after a thousand miles of riding.

Related: kLite Qube Rear Blinker Review

Disclosure: kLite and their US dealer jefe.bike offered this product for me to test. The decision to write about it, and what to say, is entirely mine. Some links in this post are affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no cost to you if you purchase through them.

Who Am I?

kLite designs their gear for the most intense rides and elite riders. Think racing the 2700+ mile Tour Divide in less than two weeks, riding all night in freezing rain in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan, or pushing limits at a 24 hour mountain bike race.

Me? I’m just a regular gal and recreational bikepacker. I’m not fast enough to win races, but sometimes I enjoy my own version of racing and pushing my limits further back in the pack. The rest of the time I “just tour” at a reasonable pace, often solo or sometimes with friends or my husband. I ride far and often, usually logging a few thousand loaded miles each summer on a mix of gravel, dirt, and a bit of pavement.

After 15,000+ miles of touring, bikepacking, and racing on five different continents, I’ve learned a lot of things the hard way when it comes to gear! In my reviews I try to help potential buyers understand whether gear is right for them and their riding style, and whether it’ll be worth their hard-earned dollars.

Finishing Pinyons and Pines in Arizona

Quick Summary

The kLite system is a rugged, modular, adventure-ready dynamo-powered light and charging system designed for the most demanding rides and conditions. Despite its sophistication I’ve found it surprisingly intuitive to install and use. The system works together seamlessly and the thoughtful design puts the needs of bikepackers and endurance racers front and center. Perhaps most importantly, the light is bright and makes efficient use of dynamo power over an impressive range of surfaces and speeds.

Price: $500 (complete light and charging kit)

Details and to purchase:

My rating: 5 / 5 stars, very happy with it

Likes and advantages:

  • Bright light with excellent beam shape (I’m using the gravel version)
  • Rugged and reliable design
  • Complete plug-and-play system, all components work together smoothly and are easy to mount and connect
  • Flexible and modular design can be arranged in many configurations
  • Especially great for experienced endurance riders who want control over their cockpit setup and device management
  • Top-notch customer support, 2 year warranty, and replacement part availability

Dislikes and limitations:

  • Light is dynamo powered only (no battery option)
  • Slight learning curve to manage the system
  • More expensive than many other dynamo lighting options
  • No way to turn off light quickly for stealthiness
  • Less compact than some other options, requiring a bit more bar and/or bag space
  • On the heavy side for those counting grams

Of course every design has its tradeoffs, and kLite has intentionally optimized for many of those advantages at the expense of the limitations. It’s hard to sum up the system in just a few bullet points, so read on for an in-depth description and review.

Must-Know About Dynamo Systems In General

Before I get into the detailed kLite review, here are a few things to know about any dynamo-powered lighting and charging system.

You need a dynamo hub. These systems are designed to run on AC power from a dynamo hub which must be built into your front wheel. The most popular brands are SON (Schmidt), SP (Shutter Precision) and Shimano. They cost between $150 – $400 plus the cost of lacing it into the wheel.

You won’t feel the extra drag. Yes, physics says it takes more energy to get energy out of a hub, and you can feel this if you turn a dynamo hub by hand. But once it’s attached to your wheel and spinning along, there’s enough momentum that all but the most elite road racers would be hard-pressed to notice a difference.

Brightness depends on speed. When climbing slowly (below 5-10 mph depending on the light) a dynamo light will be dimmer. At hike-a-bike speed it may not turn on at all or may be flickery. Most people keep a second light handy for prolonged, slow, or complex night riding, though it doesn’t need to be as bright or have as much battery capacity as a primary light would (some people just use a headlamp).

You need a dynamo powered USB charger if you want to charge devices. AC power from the hub must be converted to DC before it can be used for charging; you can’t simply plug your phone into your hub. As with light brightness, the amount of charge you’ll get also depends on speed.

You’ll still want a cache battery. Even with a USB charger, you’ll still want a cache battery a.k.a. power bank (recommendations here). It’s often useful to charge the cache battery while riding during the day (when you don’t need max power for the light) and then recharge your devices from the cache at camp or while riding at night.

You need a backup plan. Though hubs and lights are designed to be highly reliable (kLite has explicitly focused on this), there’s always the possibility of failure. This is another good reason to carry a cache battery and secondary light so you won’t be completely up a creek if something goes wrong.

You’ll still have to think about charging. It’s true, a dynamo system removes a massive amount of stress especially in a racing situation. You know you’ll always have a safety tail light and some amount of headlight, even if dim, and the ability to generate a bit of USB charge. But instead of thinking about battery capacity you’re now thinking about the terrain ahead and whether it’ll be fast enough to generate power, when to charge what, and which mode to put your light in.

As you can see, dynamo systems add complexity and aren’t quite magical enough to provide unlimited power all the time. However, as someone who rode and raced without one for years, I totally love having one and would not want to go back.

A high quality system like the kLite adds a ton of value for night riding, safety lighting, and device charging in remote environments. The additional complexity is quick to get used to and I’d take it over battery-related stress any day (or night — especially night).

Before considering a cycling dynamo light, you first need a dynamo hub in your front wheel.

kLite System Overview

The Kit

Each kLite ULTRA v2 Kit includes the light (different versions for Road, Gravel, or MTB – more on this below), a dual USB charger, and a wire loom with switch for controlling the priority of light versus charging. There’s also a variety of mounting hardware, including a 3D printed GoPro style mount with shims for different bar diameters.

It’s possible to use some parts separately or mix and match with non-kLite components — more on this below. But most riders will be interested in the complete kit. One of the many benefits it provides, in my opinion, is a tightly integrated system that’s optimized to work well together.

Kits are further divided by hub type, with one option for SON and the other for SP / Shimano. The difference is in the wire loom, which comes with the correct connector for the hub type. The kits work with “any current dynamo hub.”

kLite emphasizes that all parts of the system are “expedition rated” — weatherproof, waterproof, and vibration proof — as opposed to “commuter grade.” In other words, they know things get gnarly out there and cyclists depend on this gear for performance and safety in very remote places. Since this is one of the most, if not the most, popular dynamo systems used by ultra-distance bikepack racers, it’s safe to say it gets a lot of testing in challenging environments.

Key parts of the kLite Gravel Kit (plus Qube rear blinker, sold separately, at upper right).

The Light

The kLite ULTRA light, or “lamp” as it’s apparently called in Australian, 🙂 is the centerpiece of the system. There are three versions of the light focused on road, gravel, and MTB styles of riding.

Each has three LEDs, but the lens layout varies to provide the best beam shape for the style and speed of riding:

  • Road: three long-throw lenses and low drag configuration focused on high speed pavement riding
  • Gravel: two long-throw lenses on sides and diffused lens in center for balance between close and far visibility; low-speed boost for brighter light below 8mph
  • MTB: long-throw lens in center and two diffused lenses on sides for 180 degree visibility on twisty trails; low-speed boost for brighter light below 8mph

I chose gravel as the best compromise for my riding style. Though I do sometimes ride pavement and singletrack, my sweet spot is dirt and gravel roads.

The gravel version of the kLite uses two long-throw lenses and one diffuse lens for a combination of close and far illumination.

All lights use Cree XPGv3 LEDs and output up to 1300 lumens at sufficient speed (faster than 8 mph). All include a capacitor-powered standlight that provides, once charged up by riding, a dim light for about 10 minutes without incoming power. This is super handy for hike-a-bikes, quick stops, setting up camp, or digging out your headlamp if you forgot before the sun set.

The design of the light body is super-simple, which no doubt helps with durability and reliability. There are no switches or ports, just a fully sealed housing and integrated cable that runs to the switched wire loom for control.

A key must-know about the kLite: it can only be powered by a dynamo hub. There are other bikepacking dynamo lights, like the Sinewave Beacon, that can plug into a USB power bank to supplement dynamo power at low speed or run without a dynamo entirely. This is certainly a handy feature, especially if you swap bikes or wheelsets and want to use the same headlight without a dynamo. Personally I don’t find myself missing the battery boost for low speed night riding. At low speeds I prefer to run a secondary helmet light that I can direct anywhere, rather than deplete my power bank for a brighter handlebar light, but that’s just me.

Dual USB Charger

Lighting is only half the battle when it comes to long-distance bike adventures. A dynamo light does help conserve battery since it doesn’t need to be charged, but to get the most out of a dynamo hub you’ll want a USB charger that converts AC power from your hub to 5V DC for charging other devices.

kLite’s USB charger is a simple weatherproof unit designed to mount on your bars or fit inside a top tube bag. It has two charging ports so you can charge two devices at the same time (or run a USB tail light like the Qube). A small red LED turns on when power is flowing to the USB charger, providing peace of mind that devices are indeed charging.

Related: How to Keep Electronics Charged While Bikepacking

The dual USB charger, as the name implies, has two USB ports for charging devices.

Switched Wire Loom

The kLite wire loom is the part that connects the rest together. At its heart is a switch that takes input from the dynamo hub and directs it to the light, the USB charger, or a mix of both.

The switch is designed with a curved zip tie mount that’s easy to find room for on handlebars or aerobars. Like the rest of the system, it’s ruggedized and weatherproof.

The most popular type of loom is the “race / pro” version, but it does come in a “touring” version available by special request. Both switches have two positions, but their modes are different:

  • Pro (USB always on): USB power on and light off, USB power on and light on
  • Touring: USB power on and light off, USB power off and light on

I’m using the “pro” version for both racing and touring. While it does require a bit more active management (see Experience and Impressions below) I think it should work for most riders. If you do much night riding it’s pretty much essential, as it’s the only way to power the headlight AND run a USB-powered tail light (like the Qube) or charge a low-draw device at the same time.

If you’ve already got a non-kLite charger and light but need a way to control them, the loom can also be used with non-kLite components. According to Matt at jefe.bike: “Simply cut off the connectors on the end, strip the wires, and use crimp connectors to link the wire loom to their in-place lamps and USB chargers. Others buy connectors and solder the leads right in so that there is a quick connect / disconnect to their in-place lamp and charging devices.”

The wire loom and switch is what connects the dynamo hub to the light and USB charger and switches between them.

Kerry and kLite

kLite is a one man show and passion project of cyclist and tinkerer Kerry Staite. He makes his products in Australia with a focus on innovation and sustainable manufacturing. Kerry’s authentic style and no-BS attitude are part of his products’ appeal for many. To get a sense for his work and approach, check out his Bikes or Death interview and follow up episode.

Matt and Jefe Velo

If you’re in the US, you’ll be ordering your kLite from the official US distributor Jefe Velo. Matt is an avid bikepacker, and he and his team provide top-notch customer support and can accommodate custom requests or provide guidance on DIY wiring modifications. You’ll find a few of Matt’s answers to my questions throughout this article.

Between Kerry and Matt, there’s a strong sense that actual bike-loving humans stand behind this gear and are there to help you get the most out of it.

Installation and Mounting

When researching the kLite versus its primary competitor, the Sinewave Beacon, I had read that the kLite setup is more complicated. When I first saw all the parts in all the boxes, I thought I might be in for a big project.

Actually, I found the kLite installation process surprisingly quick and easy. My kit arrived nicely packaged in paper and cardboard materials, with a clear and detailed instruction sheet. Half the bits in the kit turned out to be zip ties 🙂 so it wasn’t as complicated as it first looked.

Because the kit comes tailored for a specific hub type, the connectors were pre-installed. It was simply a matter of deciding where to put each part on my bike, attaching the mounts, and plugging in the connectors. On my very first try spinning the front wheel, the light flickered into life as if by magic.

The pieces can be arranged in a ton of different ways depending on your cockpit setup. Here’s how I currently have mine mounted.

Mounting the Light

The biggest decision is where and how to mount the kLite lamp on your bike. It comes with a 3D printed GoPro style mount, and several other types of mounts are available on jefe.bike. I already had a K-Edge (no relation to kLite) mount that was a little more svelte, so I used that, but the included mount seemed solid.

Consider your handlebar bag setup when mounting the light. In the past I’ve had trouble with handlebar-mounted lights, even with a bar extender, being blocked by my bags. Happily the GoPro mount is tall enough that I was able to angle it up and a bit forward (forward helps prevent getting an eyeful of your own light when climbing or dismounting) and still have a clean light path.

Top view showing how my light is currently mounted
Side view showing slight forward angle (at night I would pack the front bag down smaller to avoid blocking the beam)

Tip: As with all kinds of handlebar mounts, try a strip of old tube or a few wraps of electrical tape to protect the bar and prevent the mount from slipping.

The optics are symmetrical so the light can be mounted in either orientation, with the bolt above or below the lenses (but not sideways, with the lenses aligned vertically). Other mounting options include the stem, fork, between aero bars, or beneath a GPS device mount.

The 3D printed parts might seem unusual or even low quality to those unfamiliar with this manufacturing technique, but it’s actually pretty clever. The precision is quite good and the costs are likely lower, even if the finish isn’t the smoothest. My husband is a 3D printing enthusiast, and this is exactly the type of thing he would 3D print if he were making it.

Tip: Put a dab of threadlocker or glue on any bolts you use for mounting. I learned the hard way that they can vibrate loose, even though the nut has a polyester bushing designed to prevent this.

On a related note, should your mount ever break or fail, the kLite lamp can be zip tied in place using the slots in the aluminum heat sink.

Mounting the Charger and Switch

Your next decision is where to place the switch that controls the wire loom, and where the USB charger will live.

I mounted the switch on my handlebars to the left of the light. With the switch in the rightmost position it points toward the light, reminding me that this position turns it on. Some people mount the switch to their stem or aerobars.

The dual USB charger lives inside my top tube bag along with the USB cache battery it charges. It can also be mounted on the handlebars with zip ties, but I like having it tucked away and protected from crashes and rain (though it’s weatherproof). kLite recommends using a zip tie to secure USB charging cables into the charger to make sure they don’t unexpectedly vibrate loose.

Connecting the Wires

Thanks to pre-installed connectors, wiring up the various pieces was simple. A few tips:

  • When installing the front wheel make sure the connector on the dynamo hub is facing upward, inline with the fork. If the cable is yanked suddenly (as happened when my mounting bolt came loose) this will minimize stress on the connector.
  • Zip tie or otherwise secure cables as needed to keep things tidy and reduce risk of snagging or catching.
Connecting the wire loom to the dynamo hub with the preinstalled SON style connector.

Testing it Out

With the bike in a stand or lifted off the ground, if everything is connected properly you should be able to give the front wheel a fast spin for a few seconds and see the light flicker into life. Take it outside and you’ll see its full brightness kick in around 8 mph.

My Experience and Impressions

So, after my first thousand miles with the kLite system, how’s it working out? This section goes into detail about my experience and impressions so far.

The Light

Overall the light is a key addition to my kit, especially for races and events. I already wonder how I ever got by without it.

Brightness: At full power (over about 8 mph) this light is really bright and fully sufficient for most of my night riding needs. It’s also incredibly effective as a safety light on roads. A friend once thought I was a motorcycle in her rear view mirror as I pedaled up behind her. Sometimes I hold my hand out to block the beam from blinding pedestrians when riding through towns after dark.

At night the beam shape does a great job – better than the helmet light I was using before – of illuminating the important parts of the road or trail at a wide range of speeds. It provides a much better sense of depth than my helmet light, perhaps because of its three beams. On gravel or paved descents or straightforward flats it provides all the light I need to ride confidently.

It’s dimmer below 8 mph, but at that speed I’m usually grinding up a climb and don’t need as much light anyway. On hike-a-bikes the stand light is often enough to navigate the trail, but I sometimes run a helmet light at low brightness just because it’s comforting (yes, sometimes I’m afraid of the dark).

On singletrack I run a helmet light in parallel so I can see around tight corners and get a bit more help navigating obstacles. Note that the MTB version of the lamp provides a wider angle beam more suitable for twisty singletrack than my gravel version. At my slow singletrack speeds, however, I would likely still need a helmet light.

Night riding is often a mental strain for me and an abundance of light (and a beam I can direct anywhere, such as toward that rustling in the bushes behind me) goes a long way. Now that I’m using the kLite though, my helmet light can run on its dimmest setting and spend more time off, so I worry much less about battery life. I also know that I could keep moving without it if I had to.

Key tip: To run the lamp at full brightness when using the pro/race wire loom (which has USB charging always on), make sure you unplug any high current draw device like a power bank from the USB charger. The lamp can only run at full brightness with a low-draw device (like a GPS or InReach) plugged in. Charge the power bank during the day!

At full brightness on a paved descent (because I couldn’t take a steady picture with one hand while descending gravel)

Simplicity: With no switches or ports, just a sealed housing with integrated cable, there’s very little that can go wrong! My only small gripe is that there’s no way to instantly turn the light off once the capacitor is charged. Call me paranoid, but occasionally I like going into “stealth mode” to find a sneaky campsite or avoid drawing attention to myself.

Durability: This thing seems bombproof. Granted I’ve only put a thousand miles on it so far, but my light has already taken a hit in a crash. It was enough to loosen the mount and knock the light askew, but no damage was done to the light itself (it fared far better than my knee and elbow). kLite designs these lights for some of the toughest riding and gnarliest conditions around, and though anything can happen out there I certainly feel optimistic about its reliability.

Stand light: Thanks to the magic of capacitors, the light will shine dimly for about ten minutes after the hub stops moving. I’m pretty sure I’ve measured even longer, long enough to completely set up my bivy, crawl in, eat a snack, and the light is still on. Personally I like to supplement with a headlamp when setting up camp, but I also love knowing I’ll never be caught completely in the dark if batteries die or I misplace my secondary light.

The stand light at dusk on a gravel road

USB Charging

The kLite dual USB charger is simple but well executed. It fits nicely in my top tube bag, is easy to use with both a cache battery and Qube tail light, and the red LED makes it easy to check that charge is flowing (surprisingly important when you’re sleep-deprived and looking for something to worry about). I love the peace of mind that comes from knowing I can generate charge for my mission-critical devices in the middle of nowhere.

The Sinewave Beacon, another popular bikepacking dynamo light, has a single USB port integrated into the light body. Though this makes for a slightly simpler setup and takes up less space, I actually like that the kLite system is modular and I can decide where I want each piece to live on my bike. Right now I’m liking the charger in my top tube bag, where I can keep most of my cables and battery safely tucked away with it. The separation of functions also allows for using the USB charger without the light, which I’m contemplating for an overseas tour later this summer.

The kLite charger seems to generate charge as efficiently as any dynamo system, maybe even better at slow speeds. But if you’ve never used a dynamo powered charger before, you’ll need to set your expectations appropriately. Here are a few benchmarks:

  • Ten miles of riding on flat-ish roads charges my 10,000 mAh power bank about 5%. So it would take ~200 miles of smooth riding to charge it fully.
  • On a tough 50 mile stretch with lots of singletrack, hike-a-bike, and slow climbing, I was only able to add 14% to my 10,000 mAh power bank. At this pace, 200 miles of riding would only charge my power bank about halfway – definitely not enough to keep up with my phone battery usage.

In other words, unless you’re really fast it’s hard to generate more power than you’re using, especially if you ride short daily mileage or rugged routes. Active management definitely helps. Some tips I’ve discovered:

  • Always be charging something. Waiting until the first night to charge phone from power bank wastes a full day of potential dynamo charging. Use a power bank with passthrough charging, and/or periodically top up the phone from the power bank and top up the power bank from the dynamo during the day.
  • Think ahead to upcoming terrain and factor it into your battery management. Long descents and smooth flats during daylight are the best time to bank some serious power. At night it’s best to let the dynamo power go toward your light while charging a low-draw device or none at all.
  • Continue plugging in at resupply stops and using other battery management techniques unless you’re really confident you can produce enough through the dynamo.

So if you still have to think about batteries and plug in at the gas station, is a USB charger even worth it? I say definitely yes. In combination with the dynamo powered light (which I no longer have to worry about charging) it has absolutely eased the burden of battery management.

Where I used to carry three 10,000 mAh power banks for events in the 300 – 400 mile range, now I only carry one. Plugging in and waiting for sufficient charge used to be mandatory at every resupply stop; now it’s a nice opportunity to top up but I can leave when I’m ready. I used to stress about running out of juice in the middle of nowhere and losing my lights and navigation; now I know I could limp along using power from my dynamo if necessary.

USB charger and power bank in my top tube bag

Switch and Loom

The wire loom does what it’s supposed to do: connect all the pieces together securely and easily. It’s intuitive to set up and seems solid and waterproof.

I’ve mounted the switch on my handlebars so that the light is on when the switch is pointed toward it (easy to remember). Left is USB charging only, right is USB + light. Dead simple and easy, even when you haven’t slept in 24 hours.

Tail Light Compatibility

Though not part of the kit, I’m also running a kLite Qube safety blinker tail light from the USB charger. It’s one of my favorite parts of the system, and super easy to plug and play with the rest of the kLite kit. Here’s my review of the Qube.

If you already have a dynamo tail light and want to use it with the kLite kit, here’s what Matt at jefe.bike has to say:

“For those that are running an existing dynamo tail light (like the Secula or Supernova e3, which are quite popular), these almost always run off of alternating current. AC tail lights will play nicely with the ULTRA / USB charger / wire loom but will require a pigtail Y connector from the switched wire loom lead, a run of wire back to where the tail light resides (typically on a rack), and also an in-line resistor to limit the current that will flow to the tail light so that the LED doesn’t get overpowered and blown out. We build these for customers all the time—mostly tricked out tandems, work bikes, and hard core commuting bikes—and the cost is typically $75 for a custom wire run and Y-connector that includes the in-line resistor.”

The System

As a new dynamo hub user, I worried it might be a pain to install and manage the separate parts of the kLite system. I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly it came together and how easy it was to use right from the beginning.

The most obvious contrast is the all-in-one design of the Sinewave Beacon, another popular bikepacking dynamo light. The Beacon has a single USB port and control switch built into the light body itself. This does make it simpler to mount and more compact, which some folks will find appealing.

However, I don’t think the modularity of the kLite system is a problem. For more experienced riders I actually think it’s preferable, as we can arrange the bits and pieces to best fit our own quirky setups. And the system is still simple enough that less experienced folks should have no problem getting it up and running in a starter configuration that they can refine over time.

The Cost

Let’s be honest: the full kLite system is rather expensive. It’s a serious investment that will appeal to dedicated riders and racers who already know how important a good lighting and charging setup is for them.

Newer riders and those with limited budgets are probably better off with a good battery-powered helmet light, for the time being. But if you’ve already invested in a dynamo hub, “in for a penny, in for a pound” as the saying goes. A high quality lighting and charging system will make the most of your hub’s capabilities.

kLite’s products are probably more expensive to produce than the cheaper options. Presumably the extra cost comes from the rugged and weatherproof design, unusually bright and well-engineered optics, and sustainable made-in-Australia manufacturing.

I also appreciate having a complete system (headlight and charger, plus the tail light sold separately) that’s optimized to work together smoothly. I could cobble together a mix-and-match system for less money, but the DIY wiring and potential compatibility issues could easily lead to frustration and wasted time.

Ultimately I think the decision to spend on high-quality lighting is like the decision to spend on a fancy bike. If you can afford it you’ll certainly enjoy it, and the more ambitious your riding goals the more value you’re likely to get from it. But it’s not worth straining your financial situation over, and you can still have a ton of fun on a bike without it.

In Conclusion

I’ve been very impressed with the kLite system. We bikepackers have a lot to manage out there, especially when racing. The combination of dynamo power and a reliable lighting and charging system definitely reduces stress and creates additional options for moving forward. I’ll be continuing to ride with this system through summer and fall and beyond, and will update this review with any new impressions.

On a less practical note, integrating electronics into my bike’s mechanical system makes her even more badass. I’m into it! She’s always been a cross between wild beast and high-tech machine, but dynamo electronics add a whole new dimension to her personality. Together as a team we’re now a bit more self-contained and capable in the wildest of places. That feeling gets to the heart of bikepacking for me, and I’m loving it.

For more details or to purchase a kLite system:

More Bikepacking Resources

If you’re interested in dynamo lighting for bikepacking, you might also find these helpful:

Or, visit the bikepacking resources page for lots more!

About the Author

Hi there, I’m Alissa. I’ve traveled over 15,000 miles (enough to stop counting) by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride. Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more or say hi.

Excited to try bikepacking but need help getting started? The Bikepacking Trip Planner Workbook can help you take the next step.

Bike resources in your inbox?

There’s more where this came from! Sign up here for occasional emails full of inspiration and information about bikepacking and bicycle touring.

Share the Adventure

If you found this article helpful, please consider sharing so more people can benefit from it:

You might also like my other project:

Leave a Comment

0 Shares
Pin
Share
Tweet